Sunday, 8 June 2014

Notes on Houbigant - Sally Blake

"Fougère Royale" - a royal fern....created 1885

The Perfumes

Fougère Royale – 1885
Lavender/”new mown hay” – masculine
Houbigant created Fougère Royale in the year Victor Hugo died, D. H. Lawrence was born and the first sky-scraper was erected in Chicago.

Émile Zola published “Germinal” and de Maupassant “Bel Ami”. Vincent Van Gogh painted “The Potato Eaters” and “The Weaver”, and Cézanne “The Card Players”.

In Germany, Nietzsche was giving us “Also Spracht Zarethustra”. It was the year of the Conference of Berline, and the year after Modigliani was born. It was also the year before the death of Franz Liszt. Karl Marx had been dead for two years, so had Manet, Wagner and Turgenev. Kafka was two years old, so was Utrillo: [in the wake of Elizabeth Siddal Rosetti who had set the precedent] his mother, Suzanne Valadon was posing for painters for a few francs an hour and dabbling with occasional canvas of her own, while Grandmother was keeping the baby quiet by giving him a taste for cognac.

The twenty-one year old Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec came into sufficient money to set up a studio in Montmartre, and started to frequent the circus and the music-hall. Virginia Woolf, as yet unaware of her own privilege, was bowling her hoop in a Londn park, James Joyce was making sand-castles: a Jesuit education yet to come.

Chantilly - 1941
Powdery floral
A 1950s advertisement for "Chantilly"

The nose behind this fragrance was Paul Parquet. Top notes neroli, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are spices, carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and orange blossom; base notes are leather, tonka bean, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vanilla and sandalwood.


Sally Blakeoubi
Date Unknown